Carb Cleaner or Engine De-greaser is good. I calculated a factored 1. I am getting mixed information and just am seeking some solid advice on this. The leak at the airhorn may be caused by the fuel level being so high it's above the top of the bowl. This section of the article would not be possible if it weren't for a few things that really helped me out. Remove the Brass idler screw with spring, and the vac advance fitting.
If it isn't, it may not push the checkball out of the way properly. Neither will it help if you have one of the non-rebuildable leather replacement cups that were sold at one time. Hey I am looking for an adapter and what would be a suitable replacement for a Rochester model B off of a chevy 250? Once you begin screwing with it , they'll refuse to make it right. Knowing how to keep your Rochester in good working order is a key element in assuring your induction chain is taut, and that might just begin with a good-old rebuild job, which is exactly what I did. I just bought an Advance Adapter's from Summit 2 to 1 adapter for my 235.
There are several items protruding up from the top, but one of them will remain even when everything is apart. Install the float assembly by first dropping the Needle Valve in its place, then properly orienting the Float Assembly and sliding the keeper bar across and centering it. Does anyone have pictures of their chevy inline 6 preferably a 250 with a new 2 barrel carb and new linkage setup? This must be done by physically running wire down the holes. The Carb Kit has a new one with a gasket. Once I start racing my Chevelle I plan on trying different jetting. The first design used a leather accelerator pump with a slotted stem services these. You get the engine hot, then when you turn the engine off, the gas starts to boil out of the carburetor.
Lastly, for this part, install the Metering Jet. Our experience has been that if the above procedure is followed on a stock or mild street engine, that final calibration may be done by adjusting fuel jets only. You will find that it is settled in only one way. Well, it has lots of great information in the instruction page. You need to protect that from damage while we clean and restore the inside of the carb.
Unfortunately, I'm having one problem. The spring under the Power Piston is not available either, so be very careful removing both. Any ideas what I might look for? How do you like them? With that linkage removed, you can now remove the bottom by removing the two large screws. It's called the main discharge tube. Never toss a Rochester B carb that has the wrong mounting bolt pattern. These were used on Chevrolet cars up to 1956 and trucks to 1962.
Warranty covers only the product itself and not the cost of Installation or removal. Now, lets remove the top. Today these screws are nearly obsolete, so replacing chewed up old screws has been problematic. Check the float to make sure it hasn't taken on fuel due to a leak. I have another sitting at a friends house because I don't have a truck to go pick it up, yet. The plain model B was the manual choke version.
In other words, understand your carburetor. They have fully adjustable throttle arms, and externally adjustable high speed main jets. To complicate things there have been leather pump kits sold for 2nd design carbs, but still with the round stem. For the rest of us, personally, I think 30% was a gift on my part, we have to do some investigation. It will save the screws and cause you from having to drill out and re-tap a very intricate assembly.
Now time to remove the warpage of the airhorn top casting and the bowl center casting. There are books available on this subject. He stocks a lot of hard to find parts and could very well save the day! Some models have a screen inside one of the holes in the tower. That way you could get any size Holley jet you want. We need to have the proper respect for vintage parts and understand they are not an unlimited commodity. Install the Vac Advance fitting as well. They say they are chemical resistant.