Most service manuals will also have a guide on what your spark plugs should look like. Heat is a polisher's best friend. After Welding As the aluminum cools down after the welding process, it both contracts and solidifies simultaneously. These manuals are generally used by service technicians, but you can definitely find them for purchase on Amazon, eBay, or directly from the manufacturer. If you are one of those people who want something for nothing, stay away from motorcycles because there are no free rides when restoring.
The mechanic must blend away a scratch by applying the Scotch-Brite pad to the area around the scratch concentrating on one point will tend to put a flat spot on the case -- most cases are of a double curvature shape. People come and go on a public forum, so I don't know if Herman stops by anymore. Steel and aluminium differ in hardness and compositions with more or less grease will be used. If the aluminum parts have been removed, clean them individually, rinse and dry with a clean terrycloth towel. Havent used it yet but have purchased it. A machine blasts sand onto your bike to strip off road debris. The cost for this type of repair also depends on the usual or customary costs for these repairs for the area you reside in, the cost of replacement parts needed for the rebuild, the cost of labor, and more.
Then I sanded, primed, and painted them just like the metal parts. Fortunately, however, this was just surface rust and pitting -- the integrity of the rims was still sound. Don't buy a basketcase of parts because it may just be what's left over after another restorer gave up. It shouldn't hurt raw polished aluminum, but if they were anodized, then yeah, you're screwed. Cast aluminum that has been soaked in oil, makes them difficult to weld.
A good polishing wheel was also critical, as was, well, patience. Remember, aluminum doesn't glow like steel does when heated. On that Discovery where the chap restores a 1970 Bonneville he used some plastic scotchbrite pads on an angle grinder to clean the alloy front brake plate but I don't know if it would give the finish you want. The cost of sand blasting and powder coating the chassis will put you out over five hundred dollars by itself. Look at it from one direction looks good, another direction you see the haze. I was wondering if there is a product or process to remove them without disrupting the surrounding finish too much. The cost estimate on the higher end may include this cost, but neither estimates includes the cost of labor.
Be sure to post a picture of your completed bike in our for all to see. His dream was to convert the pile of parts into a restored 1941 Indian Chief motorcycle. For the surfaces which seem to be anodized hard to scratch and non conductive , you'll want to remove that. The ideal tool for this purpose is an air-powered angle grinder with a soft installed. Nor is it harmful to good paint. Once engine cases are repaired, they are as good as new - provided the repair was done right. I decided that since everything was highly visible on this bike, I would not need to remove the motor -- I'd just work around it.
. You might be lucky and have a battery that is actually usable, but most vintage bikes have been sitting around for way too long and the battery is usually dead. The petcock was clogged, and the tank had four dents in it. I make it practise to replace every seal, bearing, oring, gasket, and the bushings in the gear box. There is a reason that top polishers like Carpy charge so much. Buffing is the easiest approach, although I suppose you could try a hobby rock tumbler since you have spares to play with.
Switch the sandpaper to 600-grit and sand over the aluminum parts again. If your plan is to resell this bike looking for profit I hope you live somewhere other than Canada, because there is no money to be made here selling restorations. Scratches are removed using a 320 grade linish belt coated with soap. Kelly Opfar - Orem, Utah 2004 A. There is a company in California that uses water and baking soda to blast the aluminum. Mixed with oil, these become abrasive grinding agents that will quickly destroy an engine from the inside-out. I have to think this would work excellent with aluminium parts.
These are known as mirror, and sisal. What your exact build looks like will vary depending on the condition of your bike, and the plan you set with your mechanic during the once-over. The usual result of glass bead blasting is a matte surface; in fact it's often done for exactly that purpose, so I'm curious why you would specify a finish that delivers the opposite of what you want :- Buffing or polishing back from a matte surface to full bright will probably take more than one polishing step. I realize this is not exactly how the original looked, but remember -- this is a resurrection, not a restoration! This black is all streaky and did not want to rinse or wash off! I cannot believe my luck in finding your web site and forum! It lays down a final layer a canuba wax and keeps the Mothers shine going for weeks without tarnishing. Don't leave registration and other papers with the machine. Because of the high thermal conductivity and low melting point, distortion and burn-through are common when welding aluminum cases.
A metal polisher does not have the luxury of a new casting. Dishwashers are a great appliance to use when wanting to shine up your cycle engine case. Manufacturers do not mirror polish aluminium. Or whatever the reaction is called or spelled. Attempting mirror finish will reduce the sharpness of the defined edges and wear away the veneer. Do try to purchase a bike that is fairly complete and not a total pile of shit. There is no point in spending the time and pesos on restoring a bike only to cheap out on the engine, because it will fail, and may actually cost more depending on the damage.
What sort of problems are you specifically warning against? The piece will not stall against the polishing wheel. Fork legs Fork legs are the most likely casting to suffer from white oxidation because the veneer has been polished away. Work in the sandpaper until you have smoothed out the deepest pits. When using oven cleaner in the past these parts would come out really clean with a flat, light grey finish that I liked. Not having to worry about old, faulty controls and never having to replace a fuse is pretty much a dream. Take care of the rubber side by making sure your tires are in good condition before you take any serious trips. And the last, last thing is to never, ever forget to have fun out there and be safe-ish.